Before I carry on must admit my impression of the place wasn’t great, getting lost didn’t help but the busy, dirty town with its vehicle fumes was just like any other third world city.
I was meant to take the night bus the day before but ended up getting drunk with Enrique instead… We agreed to meet at 8am the next day, in Bolivian I translated this to mean about 10, but all credit to Enrique he showed up on time (for the first time). We did a few things around La Paz (including getting me a much needed coffee), then he got me to the bus station.
I arrived in Cochabamba about 10pm. It was dark, the bus parked some distance from the terminal, there was a man taking a leak across from the bus (in complete public), getting off the bus I fell over an empty whiskey bottle, I had a heavy rucksack and no taxis seem intent to want to stop.
Finally one did and took me to a hostel Enrique recommended called ‘Buenos Aires’. Built probably around the 60s…. with nothing done to it since, even the bedding did not seem to be updated. But it was clean and had wifi, so I thought the Bs50 ($7/£5) was justifiable. The problem was that reception had a typewriter which the person manning it used until 3am and started again at 7pm. Also the TV was in the lobby and was left on with the volume up until 5am. All in all, within 2 days I prob got 6hrs sleep….
A popular site around the city is the statue of Christ with his arms outstretched. For info many places in South America have a similar statue, examples being Lima, Cusco and I think I counted at least 3 in La Paz. Cochabamba’s claim to fame is it has the second highest (no prizes for guessing where the biggest is). There are steps up to it but everyone (in my case Enrique, the owner of my hostel, a number of signs and an ice cream seller at the base) tell you the path is dangerous and you are likely to get robbed. Fortunately there is a cable car to the top (return trip $1.8/£1.20).
The site offers great views over the city and surrounding landscape. Some girls at the top insisted on having their photo taken with me (who can blame them)… unfortunately they were old enough to be my mother but very friendly and have told me to come and see them when I return from Argentina.
Then I had been told about a picturesque village near Cochabamba called Toro Toro. If buses use the main terminal they have to effectively pay rent, so a number operate from local street shops. I asked about 15 locals how to find the shop I needed and near got 15 different answers. Wondering around the bustling streets for about 4 hours and it either poured it down (turning the map i had into paper machete) or the sun roasted you, not many of the streets are sign posted so you have to ask and some locals are more friendly/helpful than others. Eventually a bus driver got me on the right track and I managed to get a ticket. After which I went back to the hostel exhausted (and a little pissed off).
The following day saw the main square with the church facing on to it, beautiful architecture but clock had stopped at 4pm (heart stopping moment, until I realised it was actually only 12.30pm). It rained heavily and I got lost… again, mad panic to get back to the hostel, get my stuff and catch the bus. So I was soaked, cold, very tired and panicked as needed to get the transport on time.
Personal view point only: didn’t enjoy the experience.
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