Set on the northern coast of Colombia facing out towards the Caribbean sea sits Cartagena. The old town is a mix of vibrate colonial houses ringed by a powerful defensive wall. Outside this, modern buildings tower over the city. Changing the image of how you would imagine Havana to modern US cities in the turn of a head. While temperatures rise into the mid 30s, a gentle sea breeze cools the population.
Initially however the city was comparatively defenceless. Which left it open to attack from pirates. One of the most famous being the British Fancies Drake who sacked the city on three occasions. So fortifications where begun.
Slaves were brought in from Africa. It surprised me that the Conquistadors did not enslave the local Indians. Mirrors.
The newly arrived Spanish brought with them many objects. But none seemed to fascinate the locals as much as mirrors. So much so that they agreed to swap their gold for the mirrors. And you wonder why Columbia was voted one of the most vein countries….
A prominent site within the city is the castle. It brutally erupts above the shores of one the great rivers which flow through Cartagena. The canons guarding the castle are not original although there are a few rusting ones lying around. It goes that when a battle was won the general in charge of the castle would rescue some from sunken ships. He would then lay them out for his men to see as motivation tools. ‘Remember the battles we’ve won.’
In front of the castle is a monument with the inscription (in English)- ‘Spanish pride pulled down by Admiral Vernon’. Which makes no sense.
Firstly its historically inaccurate. In an attempt to crush the lucrative Spanish trade from the Caribbean the British made plans to invade Cartagena. Unfortunately on route from Europe the commanding officer died. Then as the British prepared the attack from Jamaica rough storms preventing the ships leaving harbour and many men suffered and died from disease. Finally the forces left for Cartagena. But the admiral in charge of the navy did not get on with the general commanding the land forces. Not ideal for such a complex operation. A great battle at sea ensued before the marines could be put on land. Firstly the engineer was killed and then they discovered that the ladders were too short to scale up the building. As such the British forces were routed. And the government of the UK fell shortly afterwards.
Secondly the statue above the plaque is of the Spanish general who defeated the British admiral at the battle.
But speaking to the locals they say that the Price of Wales (UK) visited the city a few years ago so they erected it for him. Re-writing history?
The old town is rumoured to have the most expensive houses in Columbia. Shakira and Julio Iglesias are said to own properties here. It is permitted to alter the internals of the house but strict regulation govern the front façade.
The beaches around the coast of Cartagena are not inviting. But many boats in the harbour will whisk you away to beautiful island paradises. Or simply wait until you head east. Beaches aplenty. As for me- inland.
One Spanish tourist staying in the same hostel said that he had travelled all over South America and felt this was the most beautiful town. Having seen a number of towns/cities on the continent I am inclined to agree.
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